My website is finally up and running!! Please feel free to visit www.SliversOfSilver.com when you get a chance. If you order something from the site, please let me know if you have any trouble with the order process. I think all the kinks are worked out :) Enjoy!
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Tool Magic Review
I tried it!! Tool Magic was... not so good. Here's what I did...
1. Rolled the Tool Magic container (2 oz. I believe) in my hands to mix it up without getting bubbles (learned to do this for nail polish!)
2. Dipped the tools slowly in the goo, close to but not touching the joint, then removed slowly.
3. Placed on a glass to "hang" them to dry overnight.
Here's what it looked like when I was done:
I was very excited to use my "new" tools! They did NOT mar the wire anymore, UNLESS my tool sliped. After one use, though, you WILL notice that the Tool Magic coating is starting to wear in spots – nicks and scratches. Now I've used it two days... and most of the coating wore off on the round nose pliers. The flat surfaces on my other pliers seem to hold the Tool Magic coating much better, but there are still nicks and scratches... Worth my time? Meh.
Tool Magic Review: 3.5 / 10.
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1. Rolled the Tool Magic container (2 oz. I believe) in my hands to mix it up without getting bubbles (learned to do this for nail polish!)
2. Dipped the tools slowly in the goo, close to but not touching the joint, then removed slowly.
3. Placed on a glass to "hang" them to dry overnight.
Here's what it looked like when I was done:
I was very excited to use my "new" tools! They did NOT mar the wire anymore, UNLESS my tool sliped. After one use, though, you WILL notice that the Tool Magic coating is starting to wear in spots – nicks and scratches. Now I've used it two days... and most of the coating wore off on the round nose pliers. The flat surfaces on my other pliers seem to hold the Tool Magic coating much better, but there are still nicks and scratches... Worth my time? Meh.
Tool Magic Review: 3.5 / 10.
The Art of Website Creation 2
And off we go!!! I started an account on Prostores.com then "purchased" my first month free of the basic business e-commerce package (up to 5,000 products). I started by picking my template... Not a huge variety or very fancy templates, but they get the job done. Then I struggled for quite a while to find where to EDIT that template! I wanted to add my own logo and such! THEN I discovered that it's really easy: Page Template Manager located in the "short list" of links! haha. This tool was very useful, however, quirky. Most things I asked it to do were fine, but a few actions made the screen go haywire. Here's what the tool looks like:
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Just double click in each region to edit the text, links or pictures. I discovered, then, the backup or "baseline" feature. It asks you, "do you want to create a baseline" before you start editing, and the answer is YES!
Now I am setting up the shipping options. For some reason, no matter what I change the shipping options to on the setup page, it's always $5 on the "real" website!? Oh technology. Maybe it just takes time? And yes, only time will tell.
So far... scale of 1-10, where 10 is me thrilled with Prostores' performance, I'm at about a... 6? This may change after I distance myself from this shipping issue! Ta-ta for now!
Website: www.SliversOfSilver.com
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.bmp)
Just double click in each region to edit the text, links or pictures. I discovered, then, the backup or "baseline" feature. It asks you, "do you want to create a baseline" before you start editing, and the answer is YES!
Now I am setting up the shipping options. For some reason, no matter what I change the shipping options to on the setup page, it's always $5 on the "real" website!? Oh technology. Maybe it just takes time? And yes, only time will tell.
So far... scale of 1-10, where 10 is me thrilled with Prostores' performance, I'm at about a... 6? This may change after I distance myself from this shipping issue! Ta-ta for now!
Website: www.SliversOfSilver.com
How do I harden sterling?
As I created ear wires and longer sterling designs like below, I found that the dead-soft sterling silver wire I was using was too darn soft to maintain its shape well over time. That bothered me terribly since quality is of utmost importance to me!
So what can I do to make it “harder”? Well… I researched a few options that I alluded to previously in my “How To Make Ear Wires” posting:
1. Hardening the Metal: If you are at all familiar with the world of manufacturing, you might have heard about “heat treating” metal to change its hardness. “Age Hardening” is what you can do to increase the hardness. This website has good information in the section, “How can I put age hardening to use in my shop?” BUT! Cook my metal for an hour and a half? Not possible for me! I suppose if I had a kiln that would be reasonable, but, as fate would have it, no such luck. Notice, too, the note about not being able to solder after the metal is hardened – this will return your sterling back to its original, soft state. Sounds… too complicated for me.
2. Bending the Metal: Yeah, yeah. Bending the sterling wire makes it harder too – called “work hardening.” In order to do this, though, you have to ruin your shape! I don’t like this idea very much… I’ll just keep it in the back of my mind as a “good-to-know” item…
3. Hammering the Metal: As you hammer metal with your designated jewelry hammer, you are actually stiffening the metal! Try hammering a piece of wire, then bending it. More difficult, eh? That’s what we want in this scenario. I, therefore, hammer my ear wires (when it matches the design) in order to maintain the original shape of the wire.
4. Buying Harder Metal: Okay – not ALL designs look good with a hammered ear wire or with hammered wire dangles. There are different levels of hardness for sterling silver; for the earrings shown above, I used “half-hard” wire. This works really well! I also use half-hard for any ear wires that should not be hammered. Why not use half-hard all the time then? Well, it’s just not as easy for my little fingers to maneuver! I’d say have BOTH types on hand for the best results.
Summary:
- Don’t bother hardening the metal with heat.
- Bend to harden if you want to… I don’t want to.
- Hammer dead-soft wire when possible to solidify the design.
- Buy half-hard wire for designs that should not be hammered.
If you disagree with anything in this posting, please feel free to comment! I love to learn. :)
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So what can I do to make it “harder”? Well… I researched a few options that I alluded to previously in my “How To Make Ear Wires” posting:
1. Hardening the Metal: If you are at all familiar with the world of manufacturing, you might have heard about “heat treating” metal to change its hardness. “Age Hardening” is what you can do to increase the hardness. This website has good information in the section, “How can I put age hardening to use in my shop?” BUT! Cook my metal for an hour and a half? Not possible for me! I suppose if I had a kiln that would be reasonable, but, as fate would have it, no such luck. Notice, too, the note about not being able to solder after the metal is hardened – this will return your sterling back to its original, soft state. Sounds… too complicated for me.
2. Bending the Metal: Yeah, yeah. Bending the sterling wire makes it harder too – called “work hardening.” In order to do this, though, you have to ruin your shape! I don’t like this idea very much… I’ll just keep it in the back of my mind as a “good-to-know” item…
3. Hammering the Metal: As you hammer metal with your designated jewelry hammer, you are actually stiffening the metal! Try hammering a piece of wire, then bending it. More difficult, eh? That’s what we want in this scenario. I, therefore, hammer my ear wires (when it matches the design) in order to maintain the original shape of the wire.
4. Buying Harder Metal: Okay – not ALL designs look good with a hammered ear wire or with hammered wire dangles. There are different levels of hardness for sterling silver; for the earrings shown above, I used “half-hard” wire. This works really well! I also use half-hard for any ear wires that should not be hammered. Why not use half-hard all the time then? Well, it’s just not as easy for my little fingers to maneuver! I’d say have BOTH types on hand for the best results.
Summary:
- Don’t bother hardening the metal with heat.
- Bend to harden if you want to… I don’t want to.
- Hammer dead-soft wire when possible to solidify the design.
- Buy half-hard wire for designs that should not be hammered.
If you disagree with anything in this posting, please feel free to comment! I love to learn. :)
B.B. Bellezza's Craft Show Tips
In my search for other Handcrafted Jewelry blogs, I found B.B. Bellezza. At the very bottom of the blog, on the right hand side, there is a link to her "Craft Show Tips" PDF file. This is an excellent read for first-time-craft-show-goers like myself! Want to know what you need to bring? What to say to your potential customers? What NOT to do!? She has great info about it all. So, get to it and enjoy!
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Jewelry Photography – Getting Started
I love the idea of photographing my jewelry in the GREAT OUTDOORS or somewhere COOL in my house, but disappointingly, I find that the lighting is really quite terrible. I learned online how to make my own mini-photography studio though! Here was the website that I followed loosely. And another site that looks helpful.
I, however, ended up attaching half of my husband’s old white t-shirt to only one side of the box and using a powerful lamp with two light settings. We also have a Canon Powershot SD-1000 camera (the heavy duty kind). This setup works great for me! I set the camera up on Manual mode to these settings:
- Macro (flower)
- Two second timer (I don’t have a tripod yet.)
- Low light
- No flash
Why use a two-second timer? Because your hand shakes when you press the button! It takes a while for the camera to take the picture when you don't have the flash on. During that time the camera picks up every... little... movement of your hand! So, press the button, hold your breath and CLICK! You should have a nice picture. It's BEST if you have a tripod or even a solid surface to rest the camera against for this reason too...
The most challenging part is finding great backgrounds that are NOT reflective. It’s even worse when the jewelry itself reflects your face, camera, camera “stand”, etc. I’ve been covering these items with a black cloth if possible, and that seems to help… somewhat.
If you try / tried making a light box or light tent yourself, let me know how yours turned out!
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I, however, ended up attaching half of my husband’s old white t-shirt to only one side of the box and using a powerful lamp with two light settings. We also have a Canon Powershot SD-1000 camera (the heavy duty kind). This setup works great for me! I set the camera up on Manual mode to these settings:
- Macro (flower)
- Two second timer (I don’t have a tripod yet.)
- Low light
- No flash
Why use a two-second timer? Because your hand shakes when you press the button! It takes a while for the camera to take the picture when you don't have the flash on. During that time the camera picks up every... little... movement of your hand! So, press the button, hold your breath and CLICK! You should have a nice picture. It's BEST if you have a tripod or even a solid surface to rest the camera against for this reason too...
The most challenging part is finding great backgrounds that are NOT reflective. It’s even worse when the jewelry itself reflects your face, camera, camera “stand”, etc. I’ve been covering these items with a black cloth if possible, and that seems to help… somewhat.
If you try / tried making a light box or light tent yourself, let me know how yours turned out!
How To Make Ear Wires
Tired of buying all your ear wires? Here is a relatively simple recipe for making your own!
Tools you will need or want:
- 20 gauge wire*
- Wire cutter
- Round nose pliers
- Mandrel (or a pen with a ridge on it)
- Metal file (relatively fine)
- Nylon jaw pliers (nice to have)
- Polishing cloth (or cotton t-shirt)
*Wire comes in different "stiffnesses." If you want to hammer your ear wires a bit to keep them in place, "dead soft" wire is fine it seems. If you don't want to do this, I'd suggest buying "half-hard" wire. This will help to maintain the shape of your ear wire over time.
Recipe:
1. Cut two pieces of wire. I like mine to be 1-3/4" long.
2. Gently file both ends of the wires to clean them up.
3. Use your round-nose pliers to wrap a loop at one end of each wire. I like to go AGAINST the natural curve of the wire for this part. If you're going to hang a soldered ring, etc. from the loop, it's a good idea to leave the loop a bit open, insert the ring when the ear wire is complete, and then close the loop with the nylon jaw pliers.
6. Bend the tip of the ear wire with your round nose pliers to finish off the shape.
7. Round off the tip of each ear wire with your file. Check to make sure there are no sharp edges.
8. Polish with your cloth or t-shirt and VOILA! YOU ARE DONE! :)
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Tools you will need or want:
- 20 gauge wire*
- Wire cutter
- Round nose pliers
- Mandrel (or a pen with a ridge on it)
- Metal file (relatively fine)
- Nylon jaw pliers (nice to have)
- Polishing cloth (or cotton t-shirt)
*Wire comes in different "stiffnesses." If you want to hammer your ear wires a bit to keep them in place, "dead soft" wire is fine it seems. If you don't want to do this, I'd suggest buying "half-hard" wire. This will help to maintain the shape of your ear wire over time.
Recipe:
1. Cut two pieces of wire. I like mine to be 1-3/4" long.
2. Gently file both ends of the wires to clean them up.
3. Use your round-nose pliers to wrap a loop at one end of each wire. I like to go AGAINST the natural curve of the wire for this part. If you're going to hang a soldered ring, etc. from the loop, it's a good idea to leave the loop a bit open, insert the ring when the ear wire is complete, and then close the loop with the nylon jaw pliers.
4. Use your mandrel (or pen) to create a nice curve in the center of one wire. I like to use the 1/4" or 6mm segment of the mandrel.
5. Bend the second wire about half way on the mandrel. Why not all the way? You want to make sure your ear wires are the same length! Match up the short side of your ear wires (sides with the loops) to see if they are the same.
If not, bend the longer of the two ear wires slightly to shorten up that side - check again. When both "short sides" are the same, then finish bending the second ear wire by wrapping only the side without the loop around the mandrel.
6. Bend the tip of the ear wire with your round nose pliers to finish off the shape.
7. Round off the tip of each ear wire with your file. Check to make sure there are no sharp edges.
8. Polish with your cloth or t-shirt and VOILA! YOU ARE DONE! :)
Holly Gage Jewelry - High Impact Effects
We adore jewelry that is high impact. Especially in terms of designs that are asymmetrical, random, and visually intriguing. We are never disappointed when we see jewelry created by Holly Gage.
Using hand-sculpted precious metal clay embellished with a variety of materials, such as, gems, beads and titanium, Holly's pieces are always high impact in terms of the effect not only on the wearer but also of the effect on the viewer. Many of her pieces can be noticed from a distance. However, it is upon closer viewing that the real details can be appreciated.
An example of her signature techniques can be seen in this piece called "Empowerment." Its saturated color comes from a piece of metal called titanium that Holly describes as being free-formed in the furnace from a molten state. It is sculptural and flowing with varied textures and curves. We love its effects.
Wonderful craftsmanship and asymmetrical design define Holly's work. We love the strength and intensity that so many of her pieces impart. And the patterns created by the textures on the precious metal clay make each item of jewelry a one-of-a-kind piece of work. Her pendants especially seem to possess immense strength and vitality, and we find ourselves continuously drawn to them.
Here is a pendant called "Serpentine."
We are inspired by her thought process about her work, her materials, and her sources of inspiration, which she readily shares on her website. For instance,
Here we have a superb example of her work with PMC. This piece is called "Natures Renewal."
More exquisite titanium can be seen in this pendant called "River Blue."
We are always inspired by her beautiful work. Are you inspired?
Let us know what you think.
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Using hand-sculpted precious metal clay embellished with a variety of materials, such as, gems, beads and titanium, Holly's pieces are always high impact in terms of the effect not only on the wearer but also of the effect on the viewer. Many of her pieces can be noticed from a distance. However, it is upon closer viewing that the real details can be appreciated.
An example of her signature techniques can be seen in this piece called "Empowerment." Its saturated color comes from a piece of metal called titanium that Holly describes as being free-formed in the furnace from a molten state. It is sculptural and flowing with varied textures and curves. We love its effects.
Wonderful craftsmanship and asymmetrical design define Holly's work. We love the strength and intensity that so many of her pieces impart. And the patterns created by the textures on the precious metal clay make each item of jewelry a one-of-a-kind piece of work. Her pendants especially seem to possess immense strength and vitality, and we find ourselves continuously drawn to them.
Here is a pendant called "Serpentine."
We are inspired by her thought process about her work, her materials, and her sources of inspiration, which she readily shares on her website. For instance,
"I love being a pioneer with this relatively new medium, experimenting with its capabilities and working on the cutting edge of new developments. It has enabled me to blend many of my artistic studies to create unique pieces of jewelry which are inspired by my original photographic images, life experiences, and natural forms in nature."
Here we have a superb example of her work with PMC. This piece is called "Natures Renewal."
More exquisite titanium can be seen in this pendant called "River Blue."
We are always inspired by her beautiful work. Are you inspired?
Let us know what you think.
Fall colors!
When I was growing up, I would walk down the stairs in the morning where my father would great me with, "You're wearing THAT to school today!?" Typically he referred to a pink and black cat print vest and silk black pants... or something of that nature. Needless to say, my sense of "color" doesn't really follow any rules - especially those relating to seasons.
For those in the fashion industry, however, this is a critical piece of the puzzle! They follow the seasonal color guides such as this one. How fascinating it is! It all makes a bit of sense, but I am completely baffled by their ability to predict the SPRING or SUMMER colors of 2010! Well, to a degree. I dare you to compare the spring/summer colors of 2009 and 2010... and tell me which colors are different? Oh! It's DISCO PINK instead of SUPER DUPER BRIGHT PINK this season. Wow, now I understand it all. haha.
I think... I'll stick to the plants. Whatever the plants are doing (leaf colors, flower shades, etc.) in that season, that's what I'll try to focus on. Seems to be a pretty good rule of thumb if you ask me.......
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For those in the fashion industry, however, this is a critical piece of the puzzle! They follow the seasonal color guides such as this one. How fascinating it is! It all makes a bit of sense, but I am completely baffled by their ability to predict the SPRING or SUMMER colors of 2010! Well, to a degree. I dare you to compare the spring/summer colors of 2009 and 2010... and tell me which colors are different? Oh! It's DISCO PINK instead of SUPER DUPER BRIGHT PINK this season. Wow, now I understand it all. haha.
I think... I'll stick to the plants. Whatever the plants are doing (leaf colors, flower shades, etc.) in that season, that's what I'll try to focus on. Seems to be a pretty good rule of thumb if you ask me.......
Do WHAT with smelly eggs!?
I just couldn't believe this when I found out. When sterling silver is tarnished on purpose, it has an "antique look" or "patina". There are different ways to GET this look, the most common it seems is Liver of Sulfur. This is something I'd LOVE to get in the near future! In the mean time, I found out a very interesting way to obtain a "patina" without the chemical and for little $$ - use a hard boiled egg. Yeah! The sulfur in the egg will antique the metal for you! Sounds crazy... but here's what you're supposed to do:
1. Boil an egg completely.
2. Place your items to be antiqued in a plastic ziplock baggie.
3. Arrange them so they are not touching each other.
4. Insert the egg in the bag and zip it up.
5. Crush the egg and watch the steam fill the bag!
6. Wait... and wait... until the desired level of "darkness" is reached.
Okay, simple enough! Well, I tried it, and it didn't go so well the first time. PERHAPS it was due to the fact that, Mom, I never learned to BOIL an egg. Or I just don't have patience? All I can say is "over-easy." I'm going to try again in the near future though. If you've tried it and had success, let me know! Maybe also give some tips to us first-timers? Thanks!
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1. Boil an egg completely.
2. Place your items to be antiqued in a plastic ziplock baggie.
3. Arrange them so they are not touching each other.
4. Insert the egg in the bag and zip it up.
5. Crush the egg and watch the steam fill the bag!
6. Wait... and wait... until the desired level of "darkness" is reached.
Okay, simple enough! Well, I tried it, and it didn't go so well the first time. PERHAPS it was due to the fact that, Mom, I never learned to BOIL an egg. Or I just don't have patience? All I can say is "over-easy." I'm going to try again in the near future though. If you've tried it and had success, let me know! Maybe also give some tips to us first-timers? Thanks!
Cutting Wire
A family friend, Sue, recommended to me that I check out the Tronex Razor Flush Wire Cutter #7223 ($50). She says this is the way to go! Here's the website to visit. If you've tried it, please let me know what you think!
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WI & MN Bead Shows
I am thrilled that in a few weeks I will be going to my first wholesale bead show! If you are interested in going to a show, first you must check if they require a Tax License Number (shows you are a legal "seller" in your state). Here's a list of upcoming shows around the Midwest:
* Sept 15, 2009 - Rings and Things Bead Tour; Green Bay, WI
* Sept 27-28, 2009 - Mpls Bead Show; Bloomington, MN
* Oct 9-11, 2009 - Wausau Gem Show; Wausau, WI
* Oct 24-25, 2009 - Twin City Bead Bazaar; Hopkins, MN
* Jun 6-13, 2010 - Bead and Button Show; Milwaukee, MN
I will also keep my eye on this website to look for other shows in my area. I specifcally appreciate the Rock & Gem Magazine Show List towards the bottom.
So that's that! In a few weeks, I will let you know how it turns out!
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* Sept 15, 2009 - Rings and Things Bead Tour; Green Bay, WI
* Sept 27-28, 2009 - Mpls Bead Show; Bloomington, MN
* Oct 9-11, 2009 - Wausau Gem Show; Wausau, WI
* Oct 24-25, 2009 - Twin City Bead Bazaar; Hopkins, MN
* Jun 6-13, 2010 - Bead and Button Show; Milwaukee, MN
I will also keep my eye on this website to look for other shows in my area. I specifcally appreciate the Rock & Gem Magazine Show List towards the bottom.
So that's that! In a few weeks, I will let you know how it turns out!
Bored? Need to take a breather?
Scroll down to the bottom of the page and PLAY WITH FISH! :D It's fun for hours... Just hold your mouse in the box near the fish, and watch them all swim towards your mouse! Then... move your mouse as they scramble to catch up! Better yet, CLICK your mouse, and you will put FOOD in their tank! Then they REALLY move to get there. Hmm... shouldn't they really be CATS though!?
PS: I think the blue one is the fastest! He always seemed to win.
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PS: I think the blue one is the fastest! He always seemed to win.
The Art of Website Creation
Where to start, where to start!? I want a website that looks professional and that won't break the bank... so I start my research.
FIRST, my sister recommends that I look at etsy.com, a site for any artist making handcrafted goods to sell their wares. What a great site! You can start an account, set up your site (very easy), and start posting jewelry right away. It costs $0.20 to post one item for 4 months, then there is a 3.5% transaction fee when the item is sold. What's good too is that it is a very popular website. So? I am trying my hand at it: http://www.sliversofsilver.etsy.com/. Enjoy if you so desire!
SECOND, I want to start my own independent website. Man, though, it takes a lot of research to understand what's out there. Do I need to HIRE someone? Can I make the website MYSELF? No and yes - that's what I found out. Here's what I am about to do:
1. Buy a Domain Name: A domain name is the http://www.address.com/ at the top of any website. You need to buy this before you can start this process. How? One way is to set one up with the company that hosts your website (more later). Another way is to go to http://www.godaddy.com/ and buy one from one of the most trusted sites out there. This is the route I'm going. I've read that if you buy from your web hosting company (ex: Prostores, Homestead), THEY may actually own your address. That means that if you try to go to a new hosting company, you can't transfer your name! Blah blah blah... to make it simple, I am buying my domain from GoDaddy.
2. Find a Hosting Website: This is the website that will SUPPORT your website. That means that they give you the tools necessary to build your website, and they also can support an e-commerce site for you (an online store)! Someone buying with a credit card? They will take care of all that messy stuff, and you just get the "cash"! ALSO, if you have a problem, they will help with technical support. So... who do you choose?
I am going with http://www.prostores.com/ because they seem to have a great rate ($30/month, 0.5% transaction fee), and there is a one-month free trial. I also like the sites that people make using the Prostores templates. Yes - they provide a template so you don't have to start from square one. Oh, and did I mention that you don't need to know how to write any code!? Yeah - good news. If you want to, though, you CAN edit the HTML code for the website. You can also upload your website design from a web builder software like Frontpage if you'd like.
I will be using the Prostores template. While I'm working on it, I will post some updates about progress - let you know how difficult the stuff actually is to use! *crosses fingers*
Wish me luck!!
I can bend metal!
Want to learn how to wrap a neat wire link? Check out this video that shows you how to make a scroll:
I like to use a nylon jaw pliers instead of the flat-nose pliers because you will leave no marks on the wire. Also, I like to leave some space between the wire as you bend it for dramatic effect, but that does take a bit of practice.
Now the challenge! Start by figuring out how to make this one:
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Now the challenge! Start by figuring out how to make this one:
Then, but only if you're gutsy, try this one:
Can’t figure it out? Send me a message and I’ll help you out! Hehe. We all have to suffer just a little bit for great art! Plus, I felt great when I figured that last one out on my own. :)
Hammering Wire Smooth
These are perhaps my favorite earrings that I've made so far. My husband thought they were really cool too, which I considered a great feat! :)
I've bent the wires with a round-nose pliers then hammered them with my trusty picture-hanging hammer. This gives the metal a sort of rough look, which I appreciate. I've since learned how to make the silver bright & sparkly - even after hammering. This requires a perfectly smooth ball-pein hammer, which I purchased at our local bead shop for $8.50. One artist suggested:
1. Hammer with the ball side first.
2. Flip the hammer over and use the flat side to finish off the job.
I tried it, and I approve. More discovery ahead...