Tool Magic Review

I tried it!!  Tool Magic was... not so good.  Here's what I did...

1.  Rolled the Tool Magic container (2 oz. I believe) in my hands to mix it up without getting bubbles (learned to do this for nail polish!)
2.  Dipped the tools slowly in the goo, close to but not touching the joint, then removed slowly.
3.  Placed on a glass to "hang" them to dry overnight.

Here's what it looked like when I was done:

I was very excited to use my "new" tools! They did NOT mar the wire anymore, UNLESS my tool sliped.  After one use, though, you WILL notice that the Tool Magic coating is starting to wear in spots – nicks and scratches.  Now I've used it two days... and most of the coating wore off on the round nose pliers.  The flat surfaces on my other pliers seem to hold the Tool Magic coating much better, but there are still nicks and scratches... Worth my time?  Meh.
Tool Magic Review: 3.5 / 10.

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How To Make Ear Wires

Tired of buying all your ear wires?  Here is a relatively simple recipe for making your own!

Tools you will need or want:
- 20 gauge wire*
- Wire cutter
- Round nose pliers
- Mandrel (or a pen with a ridge on it)
- Metal file (relatively fine)
- Nylon jaw pliers (nice to have)
- Polishing cloth (or cotton t-shirt)

*Wire comes in different "stiffnesses."  If you want to hammer your ear wires a bit to keep them in place, "dead soft" wire is fine it seems.  If you don't want to do this, I'd suggest buying "half-hard" wire.  This will help to maintain the shape of your ear wire over time.

Recipe:

1.  Cut two pieces of wire.  I like mine to be 1-3/4" long.

2.  Gently file both ends of the wires to clean them up.

3.  Use your round-nose pliers to wrap a loop at one end of each wire.  I like to go AGAINST the natural curve of the wire for this part.  If you're going to hang a soldered ring, etc. from the loop, it's a good idea to leave the loop a bit open, insert the ring when the ear wire is complete, and then close the loop with the nylon jaw pliers.

4.  Use your mandrel (or pen) to create a nice curve in the center of one wire.  I like to use the 1/4" or 6mm segment of the mandrel.

5.  Bend the second wire about half way on the mandrel.  Why not all the way?  You want to make sure your ear wires are the same length!  Match up the short side of your ear wires (sides with the loops) to see if they are the same. 

If not, bend the longer of the two ear wires slightly to shorten up that side - check again.  When both "short sides" are the same, then finish bending the second ear wire by wrapping only the side without the loop around the mandrel.

6.  Bend the tip of the ear wire with your round nose pliers to finish off the shape.

7.  Round off the tip of each ear wire with your file.  Check to make sure there are no sharp edges.

8.  Polish with your cloth or t-shirt and VOILA!  YOU ARE DONE!  :)

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Do WHAT with smelly eggs!?

I just couldn't believe this when I found out.  When sterling silver is tarnished on purpose, it has an "antique look" or "patina".  There are different ways to GET this look, the most common it seems is Liver of Sulfur.  This is something I'd LOVE to get in the near future!  In the mean time, I found out a very interesting way to obtain a "patina" without the chemical and for little $$ - use a hard boiled egg.  Yeah!  The sulfur in the egg will antique the metal for you!  Sounds crazy... but here's what you're supposed to do:

1.  Boil an egg completely.
2.  Place your items to be antiqued in a plastic ziplock baggie.
3.  Arrange them so they are not touching each other.
4.  Insert the egg in the bag and zip it up.
5.  Crush the egg and watch the steam fill the bag!
6.  Wait... and wait... until the desired level of "darkness" is reached.

Okay, simple enough!  Well, I tried it, and it didn't go so well the first time.  PERHAPS it was due to the fact that, Mom, I never learned to BOIL an egg.  Or I just don't have patience?  All I can say is "over-easy."  I'm going to try again in the near future though.  If you've tried it and had success, let me know!  Maybe also give some tips to us first-timers?  Thanks!

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Cutting Wire

A family friend, Sue, recommended to me that I check out the Tronex Razor Flush Wire Cutter #7223 ($50). She says this is the way to go!  Here's the website to visit.  If you've tried it, please let me know what you think!

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I can bend metal!

Want to learn how to wrap a neat wire link?  Check out this video that shows you how to make a scroll:

I like to use a nylon jaw pliers instead of the flat-nose pliers because you will leave no marks on the wire.  Also, I like to leave some space between the wire as you bend it for dramatic effect, but that does take a bit of practice.

Now the challenge! Start by figuring out how to make this one:

Then, but only if you're gutsy, try this one:

Can’t figure it out? Send me a message and I’ll help you out! Hehe. We all have to suffer just a little bit for great art! Plus, I felt great when I figured that last one out on my own. :)

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Hammering Wire Smooth

These are perhaps my favorite earrings that I've made so far.  My husband thought they were really cool too, which I considered a great feat!  :)

I've bent the wires with a round-nose pliers then hammered them with my trusty picture-hanging hammer.  This gives the metal a sort of rough look, which I appreciate.  I've since learned how to make the silver bright & sparkly - even after hammering.  This requires a perfectly smooth ball-pein hammer, which I purchased at our local bead shop for $8.50.  One artist suggested:

1.  Hammer with the ball side first.
2.  Flip the hammer over and use the flat side to finish off the job.

I tried it, and I approve.  More discovery ahead...

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Beading Tools - Necklaces & Bracelets

Looking to start beading but don’t know how to do it? Suggestion #1: Go to your local bead shop. There are classes, but a lot of shops also encourage you make jewelry there, and their employees will help you get started and finished (can be for a small fee).

If you want to get started at home right away, though, below is what you will need in your bag of goodies. This is also a good video that shows the use of a few of these tools and components.

1. Beads (obviously) – start with Michaels or Joann’s for some good selections of practice beads.

2. Tigertail – this is wire that is made up of many smaller wires twisted together. It comes in multiple diameters; different beads have different hole sizes, AND you want to make sure it will be strong enough to hold heavier beads. You can also double string for heavier beads.

3. Side or Flush Cutters – you will need to CUT the Tigertail with this tool.

4. Bead Stopper or Clip – oh the curses you will hear if you’re ALMOST done and WHOOPS! All the beads slip off the wire! I attach a small clip from the hardware store to the end of the wire. Also, when I try the item on, I attach a second clip to the other end. Then you are safe!

5. Crimp – this is a small metal “tube” typically you use to make a loop at each end of your Tigertail. You will slide the crimp on the wire, loop the wire around, then guide the wire back through the crimp – leaving a small loop at the end. Make sure the loop isn’t TOO small, or the wire will rub your jump ring and possibly break over time. Then you need a…

6. Crimping Tool – the tool has two slots in it. The slot that is heart shaped is for collapsing the crimp onto the Tigertail. After that, move the crimp to the round slot, turn the crimp on the side, and FOLD the crimp in half with the tool. Your Tigertail should be stuck for life.

7. Jump Rings – hook a small jump ring (a ring with one cut in it) to each loop you made earlier; you can also just attach the clasp directly if your clasp allows. You will need two pliers to open and close these rings. I typically use my round-nose and flat-nose pliers…

8. Round-nose or Flat-nose Pliers – two pliers are necessary for opening and closing your jump rings. You want them to be smooth – not from the tool cabinet – or they may mark the jump rings. Unless you are working with wire, the TYPE of pliers isn’t super important. When I am done closing my jump rings, though, to make them extra tight I use nylon pliers. This is a flat-nose set of pliers with a substantial amount of white nylon covering the surfaces to protect wire.

9. Clasp – a Lobster Claw clasp is the most common type of clasp I’ve seen. This is the oblong kind you need to use your finger to open with the small lever. Other common types are Spring Ring clasps, which are similar but round, and Toggle clasps, which have a round component then a “stick” that you pull through the round piece.

10. Optional Chain – sometimes it’s nice to make your jewelry adjustable. Simply measure and inch or so, cut one link in the chain and throw the link away. Attach the length of chain to the jump ring with your pliers, and you’re set to go!

Okay, so there are a QUITE a few things on this list. Once you’re set, though, this will pay itself back very quickly!

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Pliers marring your wire?

As I create these twisted pieces, I notice that the round nose pliers can sometimes leave a little "bite" mark on the sterling.  My nylon pliers are wonderful, but they are flat...

I've heard of people using Tool Magic, which I found at Joann's or FireMountainGems.com.  The instructions tell you to dip your tool into the compound, wait for a few hours, and BAM!  You're golden!

My order is coming in a few days... I'm very excited to try this new technique!  I'll keep you posted ;)

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